Something New and Something Old

The taxi driver who picked me up at the Venezia Mestre train station was stuff of legend. I told him where we were going, and he sped off into the drizzly night, driving at whiplash speeds down dark unlit streets and ignoring the GPS, carving a zigzag line into the landscape that crossed the direct route on several occasions.

Numerous laws were broken getting me to my hotel on the outskirts of the Venice airport this evening, and although I hadn’t requested any undue speed, I appreciated it and tipped him well for it. My flight leaves early tomorrow, so any time saved for sleep is a bonus.

But the day began to the Southwest, in Bologna, from whence P departed this morning leaving me alone to pass the day. But before she departed we went to a cafe for a cappuccino and pastry.

My croissant, with pistachio cream, was lovely, with wispy layers of air wrapped around delicate layers of buttery bread.

She then called her Uber for the airport and I finished packing my things.

I didn’t know what I would do today, other than eat, of course. But I found some things.

One new thing I found was the Palazzo Re Enzo, right in the center of town, where King Enzo of Sardinia was once imprisoned. He was free to roam the palace during the day, but caged again every night.

The palazzo has been closed at other times when I’ve been here, so I was happy to go in and explore the little bit that they had open.

Most of the building was closed except for the courtyard and a couple of rooms upstairs, the largest of which were occupied by some sort of “bio” event.

I imagined the imprisoned king looking out into the surrounding streets. The view from here is pretty darn great right now, and I’m betting it wasn’t bad 750 years ago either.

The other thing I found today was the Geological Museum, which I’ve passed by several times without noticing.

I won’t say it’s the best such museum I’ve visited, but a few things sparked my interest, such as this ichthyosaur skelton.

This feathery prehistoric fish skeleton.

And this long extinct predecessor of an armadillo.

It was nice to do some new things in Bologna, but when I’m visitng someplace like this, that I know well, it’s also nice to include the familiar and beloved.

So finally I made my way to da Bertino, which P and I skipped two nights ago. This time I went for lunch. I had their lasagna, and it was a feather-light layering of pasta, meat, cheese, and bechamel. I couldn’t have been happier.

One of the family members who runs da Bertino is a middle aged woman who always seems a bit harried and grumpy. On my way out I told her that every time I come to Bologna I come to her restaurant to eat, and it’s always my best meal of the trip.

And her face lit up in a broad smile like I’ve never seen from her before. And she told me to be sure to come back.

What I had told her was true – and I most definitely will be back

In the early evening I gathered my bags and went to the station where my train to Venice was delayed by about 40 minutes due to problems on the track someplace south of Rome. Eventually, however, I got on the train to Venezia Mestre, and began my trek home.

Thank you for joining me on this journey, my friends. I have had such a good trip, and I needed it. I go home now to a Michigan fall, with changing leaves and cooling breezes.

But more trips are coming and I hope you will join me soon.

With love

Butterblogger