In the evening twilight, when the sun has set over the mountains to the west and the sky is still streaked with oranges, reds, and purples, the Nile shines like a silvery serpent as she flows northward from Lake Victoria to the Mediterranean Sea. I am in Luxor now, which in ancient times was Thebes, […]Read More The Spiced, Perfumed Air is Hot
I walked through Amsterdam Schiphol thinking about the lounge and that perhaps I should just go there and start nursing a cappuccino. Seven hours would be a long wait, but at least I would have a comfortable seat and some food. The airport wasn’t very busy – none of them are right now, and I […]Read More All The Moving Pieces Have to Fit
The plane hurtled up the runway in Nassau, gathering speed, and I looked out the window, ruminative, thinking about the week I had spent on a boat with strangers (I met Trish in January when I went to Cozumel, but didn’t really know her very well before this trip). As the wheels lifted off and […]Read More So, On Monday…What Happens?
The captain gave us all the instructions ahead of time: what we were to do in preparation and how we were to behave Really, he just wanted us to stay out of the way of the crew. I’ve personally gotten better at that as the week has progressed. But first, there was time for one […]Read More Sailing Toward Home
We stepped off the dinghy and onto the hot sand of Allen’s Cay, our feet touching dry land for the first time in 4 days. When we arrived, we found a large group of lizards waiting as if expecting us, and more soon began to slink out from the shelter of the gnarled trees. They […]Read More I Do Not Think It Means What You Think It Means
Here’s the thing about the ocean: it is where life probably originally arose, but it is also an extremely destructive power. According to the NOAA, the average ocean depth is 12,100 feet. Recreational divers aren’t supposed to go beyond 130 feet, so we are barely wading, really. And even these scant depths aren’t meant for […]Read More Back Into Darkness