The morning sun greeted me with warmth and joy. I haven’t seen the sun since I landed in Norway, and the weather forecast was for another day of rain so this was a glorious surprise.
I hurried quickly out into the brisk morning, the town still wet from yesterday’s rain. My hours remaining in Bergen were quickly slipping away so I had to limit my itinerary to high priority items.
My first stop was the Fløibanen funicular, to the top of Mount Fløyen. Yesterday would have been an ideal time to do this, but the ponderous clouds lay low in the sky and completely obscured the mountaintop, just as they certainly would have obscured the view.
Today, the clouds were high, billowy, and white, while the sun, low in the sky as it was at such a northern latitude, was warming. All of this made for a beautiful view from the deck high above town, countering the chill breeze that brushed our skin.
While there, I had a cinnamon roll for breakfast and cappuccino before the trip back down. I had purchased a return ticket, but my apps said the trip down was a 45 minute walk. The road was paved, the forest was deep, and I couldn’t say no.
Down into the cool pine forest I went, following the road as far as I could. Along the way, a truck passed and I realized the road wouldn’t be wide enough for the two of us.
I considered this path (yes, there’s a path there), but decided to try the road again, this way being narrow and muddy and I lacking poles and boots.
At the next corner every app advised me to venture off road, and seeing other hikers, this is what I did.
I was glad I went this way – it scratched an itch and was much more rewarding than being on a paved surface.
I made it with 30 minutes to spare and checked out of the hostel, From there I hurried to the Kode museum, which had been closed yesterday. I wanted to see the Edvard Munch works.
You are likely familiar with Munch, who is best known for “The Scream.” But the works on exhibit here range from about 1883 to 1916, and the earliest works are dreamy and ethereal, with this piece, “Morning” depicting a young woman draped in gossamer light.
A mere 8 years later, he produced this haunting piece.
And 20 years later, these Bathing Boys.
Examining his progression over time from impressionism to expressionism was frankly fascinating and I wanted more.
There were no more Munch works to view, so I passed on the opportunity to visit any more museums today. After the morning, anything additional more would have distracted from this singular experience.
Instead I found lunch of fish soup, over which I lingered for a time. Still, when I headed to the train station, I was an hour ahead of schedule, and so rushed to be certain I would catch the earlier train.
About halfway through the 80 minute ride to Voss, the rain returned, heavily and steadily this time.
When I checked into my hotel near the station there, it still hadn’t abated. I tried to explore the town, but I wasn’t properly dressed for much other than the grocery store.
So I returned to my hotel and instead enjoyed a brief break in the bar before dinner.
Tomorrow will a big day and I will want to be wide awake.
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