I left Rome this morning, headed to a night in Istanbul, which probably sounds strange, but makes sense in its own way.
Turkish Airlines has a deal – of sorts. They like to brag about the number of countries to which they fly, but that has a downside, which is the logistics of a connection in Istanbul. This meant that I had two primary options for my flight home: a 6 am flight from Rome on Sunday, or 10 am on Saturday, with a 23 hour layover in Istanbul.
This is where the airline steps in – when you have a long layover they will pay for the hotel, advertising it as a way to see a little bit of the city. I had heard about this and wanted to try it out, given my affection for Istanbul.
To shorten the story for you: It sounds great but doesn’t work that well. After arriving in Istanbul you have to go through passport control and get to the hotel. I took the subway, which was very easy, but not everybody could manage this. By the time I got to my hotel it was almost 5 pm, which also meant that most attractions would be closed.
Complicating things further was the fact that my hotel wasn’t in a tourist district – it was in a business district.
I made the best of this, of course, going to the hamam in the hotel where I was scrubbed down by a gruff Ghanaian woman.
And then I found dinner – and what a dinner it was.
The restaurant was recommended by the concierge. The walk there took about 25 minutes, into neighborhoods bedecked for Iftar, or daily breaking of the Ramadan fast.
I walked into the brightly lit restaurant without a reservation but was promptly seated amongst families and revelers.
My eyes were bigger than my stomach, but I left no regrets on the table. I started with muhammara and an ezme salad, bedecked with crunchy walnuts, tomatoes, onions, and pomegranate molasses. This was followed by a huge plate of mixed meats.
When the time for dessert came, I debated, but my server was not to be denied. He insisted I should try something called güllaç, a traditional dessert. He spoke of it with pride: it is an old recipe, predating baklava, that is only made during Ramadan.
And he was right – it was delicious and well worth it. The layers were creamy and nutty and floral, scented with delicate rosewater. It was topped with a crumble of pistachio and a cherry.
I stepped out of the restaurant thinking that is probably the best dinner I have ever had in Istanbul, and I reflected on that as I walked back to my hotel. Everything was great, but dessert was key. Any time I get to try something unique like güllaç it feels like a win.
In the end, I think I’ve made the most of my quick night in Istanbul, but I probably won’t do it again if I don’t have to.
My flight home leaves tomorrow morning, and from there I will have a little break. But don’t worry my friends, I’ll see you again in May.
With Love,
Butterblogger
butterblogger 