In Which I Break Into the Amber Fort By Mistake

We wound our way through the brimming byways of Jaipur, sometimes driving three-abreast on two-lane roads, although most often there weren’t lanes marked at all. Periodically we picked our way around a bottleneck. Or a cow. And along the way we passed, and were passed by, rickshaws and motorcycles in a nimble low speed race […]

In Which I Mostly Talk About Everything Else

As soon as I stepped out of the car, it began. The guides swarmed over me, trying to sell their services. They’re respectful to each other, giving each man the opportunity to fail in his pitch. The first man came forward, incessantly pestering me, offering to lead me on a tour of the Taj Mahal. […]

Risking It All In Old Delhi

The streets of Old Delhi are like nothing I have seen before. When I think of the most densely occupied places I have visited, with their street markets and vendors and utter crush of humanity pressing in on all sides, nothing comes close. In terms of bodies pressing on bodies, Naples at its busiest has […]

London Calling

I didn’t truly know what I was seeing, but I had a hunch. When I booked this itinerary, I wasn’t entirely enthusiastic about a 12 hour layover in London. I’ve been to this city twice and just haven’t fallen in love with it. Still, I spoke with some friends who are enamored with her and […]