The Texas of France

Nestled on the fluid border that divides France and Germany, in the picturesque land between the Vosges mountains and the Black Forest, Alsace boasts a rich, complicated history. A frequent spoil of war, the region has changed hands five times since 1681. When a people experience such swings of authority and allegiance, they develop a […]

In the Borderlands

The adrenaline rush of rebooking sustained me well into my flight out of JFK to Paris. I slept a bit on the plane, but by the time I hit the ground at Charles de Gaulle I was starting to drag and could feel the wall coming at me. Try as I might, the fatigue of […]