A Delicious Layover

I left Rome this morning, headed to a night in Istanbul, which probably sounds strange, but makes sense in its own way. Turkish Airlines has a deal – of sorts. They like to brag about the number of countries to which they fly, but that has a downside, which is the logistics of a connection […]

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When Presence Suffices

I sat on the cool stone steps of the Piazza Trilussa resting my feet and just breathing in the moment as the twilight deepened toward darkness. On the other side of the square, cars zipped along the edge of the Tiber, and all around me people came and went as the warm spring day yielded […]

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Peeling Back The Layers

Scilla has a stunning solitude this time of year. When the tourists are away, the narrow streets are quiet other than an occasional pedestrian and some hushed voices sitting at a cafe. The storefronts mostly stand closed, and the rare few that are open are staffed by lonely shopkeepers. Even the ripples of the Sea […]

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You Should Watch Cinema Paradiso

I love volcanoes – I’ve always loved them, for as long as I can remember. There’s just something about the power, the destruction, the unpredictability, and the intimate association with our history. They have always had some sort of meaning. Seriously – when I was a kid and my dad had to go to Sicily […]

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Forgotten Histories

When I came to Calabria I knew I was coming someplace smaller, to a place most of the world doesn’t know about, and if they did they have already forgotten. I knew transport in this region is limited and many places are impossible to reach by train. I don’t have a car, so I’m more […]

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