The Hagia Sophia is simply enormous. Entering, we step across the large, rutted marble threshold, which bears the attrition of millions of footsteps over tens of centuries, and the vast space opens up like a monumental breath. The sudden gush of air forces its way into our lungs like an atmosphere under too much pressure. […]Read More Its OK That I’ve Been Here Before
This trip has been exhausting, and sometimes we need a down day. If you aren’t convinced that I should be tired, I can explain. I left Detroit at 8 PM after a full day of work, and slept little over the course of a 17 hour trip to Kusadasi, and then was up early the […]Read More Dan Is Better At Not Negotiating Than I Am
Dan’s driving is terrifying our guides, I think. While that seems funny enough on its own, in reality it’s even funnier than it sounds, because he’s generally a really good driver. He is somebody who has raced cars as a hobby, and therefore has a good sense of the road and drives cars to their […]Read More In Which The Rain Drives Us Indoors
Aphrodite was the Greek goddess of love, and to hear Yavuz speak of the ancient city of Aphrodisias, he is obviously enamored. He clearly loves archaeology, history, and his job, but when describing Aphrodisias, his language changes. He speaks a little more softly and delicately, adopting the language of the poets and the romantics, and […]Read More The Post In Which I Abandon Initials And Embrace Names
Three years ago I came to Turkey and spent four days on the Aegean coast, walking on antique pavers, breathing ageless air, and stirring sleepy particles of ancient Greek and Roman dust. During that time my travel agent arranged for me to spend two days with Y, one of the private guides here. I found […]Read More That’s Three of Seven, If You’re Counting
We surfed our way across the unbuffeted sky, riding the crest of a 171 mph tailwind from Detroit to Amsterdam and racing the clock at 703 mph. I tried to sleep on the flight, but mostly found myself shifting and rolling uneasily in my seat until I finally gave up and cracked my window shade […]Read More Three Flights. Two Connections. One Meeting. And No Complications.