In Which I Get to Zagreb

The night was swarthy when I stepped into the hotel lobby through the open door of the building that had been left wide open in a futile attempt to lower the temperature. I would later learn that the air conditioning is not on yet so that’s going to make for a long night. Including driving […]

A Necessary Memorial

The plane pulled gently back from the gate and I missed it entirely, lost as I was in ruminative thought: this is something that’s happened a lot lately, as I’ve worked through the last few weeks of my life. This entry, my friends, is a tribute that demands to be written, and I’m worried that […]

Of Donuts and Memories

My memories (and this blog) are the souvenirs I bring home from my journeys – I know I’ve mentioned this before. Today is my last day here, and when I go home I’m bringing donuts with me. Charlie told me about them – we were talking about cooking fat (they like lard here) and he […]

Don’t Let Your Impaling Define You

The agent at the desk was a gruff short-haired woman who managed to be as welcoming as one would expect, but no more than that. She informed me that I could touch anything in the museum. It was meant to be interactive. The sign confirmed this, but basically also said “please don’t break things.” So […]

In Which I Didn’t Plan to Hike

The sun had barely crested the top of Mt Tampa when I walked out of the door of my hotel to begin exploring Braşov. The city was hushed around me, especially in the old part of town where I was staying, and few cars interrupted my reverie. The morning was cold and the gelid air […]

The Patriarch Drives a BMW

I snapped a picture of the church and was surprised when a man approached me – the second person to do so today. The first didn’t speak English, but this one inquired as to whether I had taken a picture of him, and I averred that I hadn’t. I hadn’t knowingly done so anyway – […]